We own a house that was built in 1929. Someone who owned the
house before us insulated the attic with vermiculite. I am going increase the
insulation levels a lot. So I went up there to measure the area for the amount
of fiberglass batts I will need. What I discovered is a lot of white mould on
the roof boards. I think I should clean it up before I re-insulate, but I’m not
sure. Is there another way to deal with it?
Attics in older homes often have problems with mould and
mildew. Back in the day, when there was no insulation in your attic, this attic
space probably functioned quite well. That’s not to say that the insulation is entirely
to blame for the problem. Originally though, the attic was not isolated from
the interior air so it was part of one contiguous breathing space that
aspirated to the outdoors. The rising hot air from the building pushed through
the attic and roofing to the outside and all was well (except the heating
costs).
Once insulation was introduced to this space, it sealed and
separated the attic from the living area below. Nobody considered that the
attic had to breathe, so it morphed into a hot and often humid area, full of trapped
dead air. To compound the problem, a vapour barrier is often mistakenly omitted
when older attics are insulated. So, the humidity from the hot humid interior
air condenses on the roof boards because it is not prevented from entering the
attic by a vapour barrier. Fortunately, sometimes the ceilings of older houses
are well sealed with layers of old oil based paints. These layers of paint
often save old attics that have been retrofitted with insulation, from the
mould you are now dealing with.
The key to the whole problem is to introduce lots of fresh
circulating outdoor air through your attic. Unfortunately, most older homes do
not have soffit vents. However, you can easily install manufactured round soffit
vents in drilled holes. These soffit vent plugs are readily available at you
local building supply store. Install 38mm vent plugs on 300 mm centers. More is
always better than less when it comes to attic venting. Before you are install
the new insulation, ensure these vent plugs allow air flow into the attic by
installing insulation baffles (“mor vents”) between each rafter bay in the
attic. Then, install large gable end vents. These vents allow the fresh air
drawn through the soffits to escape and carry off any heat and moisture that could
provide an environment for mould growth in your attic. Then, it may not be
critical to attempt a lengthy clean up of the existing mould. Without a hot
humid environment the existing mould will no longer flourish.
When working in your attic, be careful not to disturb the
vermiculite insulation because it may contain traces of asbestos. Wear a good
quality respirator and leave your shoes and coveralls in the attic before you
come back into the living area to avoid the potential for transfer of contaminants
to your living quarters.
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This article was written by Steven Cannon, a Registered Building Official and partner in Lynch Building Inspection Services Ltd. of Nelson, British Columbia. It originally appeared in
The Nelson Express.
Key words: building, home inspection, house, British Columbia, BC, Castlegar, Creston, Cristina Lake, Edgewood, Grand Forks, Kaslo, Kootenay, Kootenays, Midway, Nakusp, Nelson, Salmo, Slocan, Trail, Yak, Ymir